Trinic H-12 Sealer
Trinic H12 is two component hybrid water based sealer meeting the following criteria:
- Easy to apply
- Excellent stain, acid, and scratch resistance
- Excellent field repair-ability
- No chance of catastrophic failure
- Coverage approx. 280-400 sq ft for 1.5 qt kit
- Comes with one small and one large syringe
Application Videos: Watch Trinic's videos below.
- Clean mixing container
- Two syringes (included in order) for measuring small amounts (to avoid cross contamination)
- Non-absorbent stir stick
- Small drill type paint mixing paddle
- Clean potable water
- High density foam roller
- Mix the A-side by stirring for 2 minutes (more if the container has sat for a long time or if you are mixing quantities larger than a quart.)
- Measure out 2 parts A and 1 part B. Use a minimum of 20 ml part A and 10 ml part B.. This must be accurate. Use a syringe or accurate measuring cup on a level surface.
- Add the B-side into the A-side (not the other way around) making sure to dispense all of B into A. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container well with a non-absorbent stir stick.
- Mix A and B together by stirring or by using a drill mixer for a minimum of 3 minutes (longer if the B is not mixed in well or if mixing more than a quart). Scrapes the sides and bottom of the container well with a non-absorbent stir stick. Note - swirling the cup around is not good enough.
- Once A and B are fully mixed, let the material sit for a 5 minute induction time before adding water.
- Add in the water and mix for 2 - 3 minutes by stirring or using a drill mixer.
- Let the A and B and Water sit for 5 minutes and then apply as instructed.
When mixing quantities less than 50ml total, it is very important to be accurate with the ml measurements. Small amounts can be very affected by a slight variation.
Shop temperature (or at least the area that the piece is located in) would be 60F (16C) or higher, up to 85F (29.5C). For temperatures above 85F, you can add more coats at a higher water dilution in place of a 3:1 or 2:1 final coat.
If you use a radiant heater to warm your concrete, allow the concrete to cool below 85F and make sure the temperature of the concrete is dropping when applying the H-12. This is especially important for the first and second coat.
Use warm water to heat up your sealer temperature for faster dry times. (Do not heat sealer temperature above 100℉)
Keep it thin. Dry your roller off as shown in the video or switch to a dry roller to get excess material off.
How much to Mix. In recent testing on about 32 sq ft of countertop - three separate pieces. We did a 7:1, 5:1, two 4:1 and a 3:1. We completed sealing one piece before doing the next piece and there was little excess as we squeezed excess back into the container. You would use less if working on a single large piece as opposed to the three pieces we worked with. We used the following volumes of Part A.
7:1 - 0.76 ml per sq ft
5:1 - 0.55 ml per sq ft
4:1 - 0.45 ml per sq ft
4.1 - 0.44 ml per sq ft
3:1 - 0.43 ml per sq ft
Cost per square foot. Costs range from 12 cents per sq ft for the 7:1 coat to 4 cents per sq ft for the 3:1 coat. For the above application, the cost for 5 coats was 40 cents per square foot. So for a 32 sq ft surface, the cost would be $12.80.
- First Coat: Add 7 parts water to 1 part sealer
- Second Coat – Mix 4 parts water to 1 sealer
- Two coats may be adequate for low use areas such as fireplace surrounds.
- Third Coat – 3 parts water to 1 part sealer
- Three coats may be adequate for vanities, a fourth is recommended for high abuse areas such as kitchen countertops.
- Some customers report excellent protection with a 7-1, 5-1, 4-1 coats. Other may add a 3-1 to gain more protection.
- For easier application do 7:1, 4:1, 4:1 and 3:1 coats. (Trinic no longer recommends a 2-1 coat as it is not necessary and takes longer to cure.)
- Flood the surface with diluted H12
- Roll with a high density foam roller
- Keep wet for up to 5 minutes or until the concrete stops absorbing sealer.
- Keep rolling until all foam is gone and roller marks disappear. Ring out foam roller to remove any excess material. The thinner the coat, the better the scratch resistance. Be sure to thoroughly wet out the surface with the first coat. Give the concrete all it wants on the first coat before taking off the excess or you may end up with roller lines.
- Remember – “Thin to Win”
- Once there are no longer roller lines or foam left on surface, let sit until the coat is dry to the touch. When you can rub it with your finger and not leave a mark, it's ready for the next coat. This generally takes about an hour at 75 degrees, about 2 to 3 hours at 60 degrees.
- The rule is let the current coat get tack free and add at least an hour before applying the next coat. Heat, humidity (pour water on the floor to bring up humidity), and air movement help tremendously in drying (curing) coats. You do not want to lock in un-cured material with another coat or this can lead to problems.
- You can use 600 grit sandpaper to remove dust particles from the sealer after it has cured a couple of days, if you attempt to sand the sealer to early in the cure cycle you may end up removing it.
- One quart of H12 will cover about 150 sq. ft. of countertop with 4 coats, which includes waste that is picked up in the roller, but not waste from over-mixing.
- The sealer will have excellent blush resistance in three days.
- The sealer requires seven days to have excellent scratch, acid, and stain protection.
- The sealer will continue to build hardness out to 14 days.
Repairing the sealer
- Small scratches can be spot repaired by filling the scratch with sealer and wiping off excess.
- The sealer can be re-coated by sanding the tops with 200 to 400 grit sand paper and sealing with an additional coat of sealer.
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